The graph shows this property’s current and potential energy efficiency.
Properties are given a rating from A (most efficient) to G (least efficient).
Properties are also given a score. The higher the number the lower your fuel bills are likely to be.
For properties in England and Wales:
the average energy rating is D
the average energy score is 60
Breakdown of property’s energy performance
This section shows the energy performance for features of this property. The assessment does not consider the condition of a feature and how well it is working.
Each feature is assessed as one of the following:
very good (most efficient)
very poor (least efficient)
When the description says “assumed”, it means that the feature could not be inspected and an assumption has been made based on the property’s age and type.
Solid brick, as built, no insulation (assumed)
Pitched, 75 mm loft insulation
Fully double glazed
Boiler and radiators, mains gas
Main heating control
Programmer, room thermostat and TRVs
From main system
Low energy lighting in 7% of fixed outlets
(other premises below)
Primary energy use
The primary energy use for this property per year is 249 kilowatt hours per square metre (kWh/m2).
What is primary energy use?
Primary energy use is a measure of the energy required for lighting, heating and hot water in a property. The calculation includes:
the efficiency of the property’s heating system
power station efficiency for electricity
the energy used to produce the fuel and deliver it to the property
Environmental impact of this property
This property’s current environmental impact rating is D. It has the potential to be C.
Properties are rated in a scale from A to G based on how much carbon dioxide (CO2) they produce.
Properties with an A rating produce less CO2 than G rated properties.
An average household produces
6 tonnes of CO2
This property produces
3.2 tonnes of CO2
This property’s potential production
2.8 tonnes of CO2
By making the recommended changes, you could reduce this property’s CO2 emissions by 0.4 tonnes per year. This will help to protect the environment.
Environmental impact ratings are based on assumptions about average occupancy and energy use. They may not reflect how energy is consumed by the people living at the property.
Improve this property’s energy performance
Potential energy rating
By following our step by step recommendations you could reduce this property’s energy use and potentially save money.
Carrying out these changes in order will improve the property’s energy rating and score from C (69) to C (73).
Do I need to follow these steps in order?
Yes. Each step builds on the one before it so you can save the most energy.
For example, it’s more energy efficient to insulate your home before you buy a new boiler. A well insulated home will lose less heat so you do not have to run your boiler as often.
Step 1: Increase loft insulation to 250 mm
Loft Insulation laid in the loft space or between roof rafters to a depth of at least 250 mm will significantly reduce heat loss through the roof; this will improve the levels of comfort, reduce energy use and lower fuel bills. Insulation should not be placed below any cold water storage tank, any such tank should also be insulated on its sides and top, and there should be boarding on battens over the insulation to provide safe access between the loft hatch and the cold water tank. The insulation can be installed by professional contractors but also by a capable DIY enthusiast. Loose granules may be used instead of insulation quilt; this form of loft insulation can be blown into place and can be useful where access is difficult. The loft space must have adequate ventilation to prevent dampness; seek advice about this if unsure.
Typical installation cost
Typical yearly saving
Potential rating after completing step 1
Step 2: Low energy lighting for all fixed outlets
Replacement of traditional light bulbs with energy saving recommended ones will reduce lighting costs over the lifetime of the bulb, and they last up to 12 times longer than ordinary light bulbs. Also consider selecting low energy light fittings when redecorating; contact the Lighting Association for your nearest stockist of Domestic Energy Efficient Lighting Scheme fittings.
Typical installation cost
Typical yearly saving
Potential rating after completing steps 1 and 2
Step 3: mm internal or external wall insulation
Solid wall insulation involves adding a layer of insulation to either the inside or the outside surface of the external walls, which reduces heat loss and lowers fuel bills. As it is relatively expensive it is only recommended for walls without a cavity, or where for technical reasons a cavity cannot be filled. Internal insulation, known as dry-lining, is where a layer of insulation is fixed to the inside surface of external walls; this type of insulation is best applied when rooms require redecorating and can be installed by a competent DIY enthusiast. External solid wall insulation is the application of an insulant and a weather-protective finish to the outside of the wall. This may improve the look of the home, particularly where existing brickwork or rendering is poor, and will provide long-lasting weather protection. The External Wall Insulation Association keeps a register of professional installers. It should be noted that planning permission might be required.
RdSAP (Reduced data Standard Assessment Procedure) is a method used to assess and compare the energy and environmental performance of properties in the UK. It uses a site visit and survey of the property to calculate energy performance.
This type of assessment can be carried out on properties built before 1 April 2008 in England and Wales, and 30 September 2008 in Northern Ireland. It can also be used for newer properties, as long as they have a previous SAP assessment, which uses detailed information about the property’s construction to calculate energy performance.