Energy performance certificate (EPC)

This property has an energy rating of F. It cannot be let, unless an exemption has been registered. You can read guidance for landlords on the regulations and exemptions.

Properties can be rented if they have an energy rating from A to E. The recommendations section sets out changes you can make to improve the property’s rating.

Energy efficiency rating for this property

This property’s current energy rating is F. It has the potential to be E.

See how to improve this property’s energy performance.

The graph shows this property’s current and potential energy efficiency.

Properties are given a rating from A (most efficient) to G (least efficient).

Properties are also given a score. The higher the number the lower your fuel bills are likely to be.

For properties in England and Wales:

the average energy rating is D
the average energy score is 60

Breakdown of property’s energy performance

This section shows the energy performance for features of this property. The assessment does not consider the condition of a feature and how well it is working.

Each feature is assessed as one of the following:

very good (most efficient)
good
average
poor
very poor (least efficient)

When the description says “assumed”, it means that the feature could not be inspected and an assumption has been made based on the property’s age and type.

Feature	Description	Rating
Wall	Cavity wall, as built, no insulation (assumed)	Poor
Wall	Solid brick, as built, no insulation (assumed)	Very poor
Wall	Timber frame, as built, no insulation (assumed)	Very poor
Roof	Flat, limited insulation (assumed)	Very poor
Roof	Pitched, no insulation (assumed)	Very poor
Roof	Roof room(s), ceiling insulated	Very poor
Window	Fully double glazed	Good
Main heating	Boiler and radiators, mains gas	Average
Main heating control	Programmer and room thermostat	Poor
Hot water	From main system, no cylinderstat	Poor
Lighting	Low energy lighting in 10% of fixed outlets	Poor
Floor	Solid, no insulation (assumed)	N/A
Secondary heating	Portable electric heaters	N/A

Primary energy use

The primary energy use for this property per year is 649 kilowatt hours per square metre (kWh/m2).

What is primary energy use?

Primary energy use is a measure of the energy required for lighting, heating and hot water in a property. The calculation includes:

the efficiency of the property’s heating system
power station efficiency for electricity
the energy used to produce the fuel and deliver it to the property

Environmental impact of this property

This property’s current environmental impact rating is F. It has the potential to be E.

Properties are rated in a scale from A to G based on how much carbon dioxide (CO2) they produce.

Properties with an A rating produce less CO2 than G rated properties.

An average household produces: 6 tonnes of CO2
This property produces: 7.7 tonnes of CO2
This property’s potential production: 4.4 tonnes of CO2

By making the recommended changes, you could reduce this property’s CO2 emissions by 3.3 tonnes per year. This will help to protect the environment.

Environmental impact ratings are based on assumptions about average occupancy and energy use. They may not reflect how energy is consumed by the people living at the property.

Improve this property’s energy performance

Potential energy rating

By following our step by step recommendations you could reduce this property’s energy use and potentially save money.

Carrying out these changes in order will improve the property’s energy rating and score from F (28) to E (52).

Do I need to follow these steps in order?

Yes. Each step builds on the one before it so you can save the most energy.

For example, it’s more energy efficient to insulate your home before you buy a new boiler. A well insulated home will lose less heat so you do not have to run your boiler as often.

Step 1: Cavity wall insulation

Cavity wall insulation, to fill the gap between the inner and outer layers of external walls with an insulating material, reduces heat loss; this will improve levels of comfort, reduce energy use and lower fuel bills. The insulation material is pumped into the gap through small holes that are drilled into the outer walls, and the holes are made good afterwards. As specialist machinery is used to fill the cavity, a professional installation company should carry out this work, and they should carry out a thorough survey before commencing work to ensure that this type of insulation is suitable for this home. They should also provide a guarantee for the work and handle any building control issues. Further information about cavity wall insulation and details of local installers can be obtained from the National Insulation Association (www.nationalinsulationassociation.org.uk).

Typical installation cost: Information unavailable
Typical yearly saving: £59
Potential rating after completing step 1

Step 2: Hot water cylinder insulation

Installing a 160 mm thick cylinder jacket around the hot water cylinder will help to maintain the water at the required temperature; this will reduce the amount of energy used and lower fuel bills. A cylinder jacket is a layer of insulation that is fitted around the hot water cylinder. A jacket 160 mm thick (or two 80 mm jackets) would be best dependent upon space limitations but an 80 mm jacket, would be a significant improvement if there are space limitations. The jacket should be fitted over any thermostat clamped to the cylinder. Hot water pipes from the hot water cylinder should also be insulated, using pre-formed pipe insulation of up to 50 mm thickness, or to suit the space available, for as far as they can be accessed to reduce losses in summer. All these materials can be purchased from DIY stores and installed by a competent DIY enthusiast.

Typical installation cost: Information unavailable
Typical yearly saving: £118
Potential rating after completing steps 1 and 2

Step 3: Low energy lighting

Replacement of traditional light bulbs with energy saving recommended ones will reduce lighting costs over the lifetime of the bulb, and they last up to 12 times longer than ordinary light bulbs. Also consider selecting low energy light fittings when redecorating; contact the Lighting Association for your nearest stockist of Domestic Energy Efficient Lighting Scheme fittings.

Typical installation cost: Information unavailable
Typical yearly saving: £21
Potential rating after completing steps 1 to 3

Step 4: Cylinder thermostat

A hot water cylinder thermostat enables the boiler to switch off when the water in the cylinder reaches the required temperature; this minimises the amount of energy that is used and lowers fuel bills. The thermostat is a temperature sensor that sends a signal to the boiler when the required temperature is reached. To be fully effective it needs to be sited in the correct position and hard wired in place, so it should be installed by a competent plumber or heating engineer.

Typical installation cost: Information unavailable
Typical yearly saving: £84
Potential rating after completing steps 1 to 4

Step 5: Band A condensing boiler

A condensing boiler is capable of much higher efficiencies than other types of boiler, meaning it will burn less fuel to heat this property. This improvement is most appropriate when the existing central heating boiler needs repair or replacement, but there may be exceptional circumstances making this impractical. Condensing boilers need a drain for the condensate which limits their location; remember this when considering remodelling the room containing the existing boiler even if the latter is to be retained for the time being (for example a kitchen makeover). Building Regulations apply to this work, so your local authority building control department should be informed, unless the installer is registered with a competent persons scheme?, and can therefore self-certify the work for Building Regulation compliance. Ask a qualified heating engineer to explain the options.

Typical installation cost: Information unavailable
Typical yearly saving: £230
Potential rating after completing steps 1 to 5

Step 6: Internal or external wall insulation

Solid wall insulation involves adding a layer of insulation to either the inside or the outside surface of the external walls, which reduces heat loss and lowers fuel bills. As it is more expensive than cavity wall insulation it is only recommended for walls without a cavity, or where for technical reasons a cavity cannot be filled. Internal insulation, known as dry-lining, is where a layer of insulation is fixed to the inside surface of external walls; this type of insulation is best applied when rooms require redecorating and can be installed by a competent DIY enthusiast. External solid wall insulation is the application of an insulant and a weather-protective finish to the outside of the wall. This may improve the look of the home, particularly where existing brickwork or rendering is poor, and will provide long-lasting weather protection. Further information can be obtained from the National Insulation Association (www.nationalinsulationassociation.org.uk). It should be noted that planning permission might be required.

Typical installation cost: Information unavailable
Typical yearly saving: £26
Potential rating after completing steps 1 to 6

Paying for energy improvements

Find energy grants and ways to save energy in your home.

Estimated energy use and potential savings

Estimated yearly energy cost for this property: £1394
Potential saving: £512

The estimated cost shows how much the average household would spend in this property for heating, lighting and hot water. It is not based on how energy is used by the people living at the property.

The potential saving shows how much money you could save if you complete each recommended step in order.

For advice on how to reduce your energy bills visit Simple Energy Advice.

Heating use in this property

Heating a property usually makes up the majority of energy costs.

Potential energy savings by installing insulation

The assessor did not find any opportunities to save energy by installing insulation in this property.

Contacting the assessor and accreditation scheme

This EPC was created by a qualified energy assessor.

If you are unhappy about your property’s energy assessment or certificate, you can complain to the assessor directly.

If you are still unhappy after contacting the assessor, you should contact the assessor’s accreditation scheme.

Accreditation schemes are appointed by the government to ensure that assessors are qualified to carry out EPC assessments.

Assessor contact details

Assessor’s name: Tina Richards
Telephone: 01908 442105
Email: info@sava.org.uk

Accreditation scheme contact details

Accreditation scheme: NHER
Assessor ID: SAVA001431
Telephone: 01455 883 250
Email: enquiries@elmhurstenergy.co.uk

Assessment details

Assessor’s declaration: No assessor’s declaration provided
Date of assessment: 14 August 2009
Date of certificate: 14 August 2009
Type of assessment: Show information about the RdSAP

RdSAP (Reduced data Standard Assessment Procedure) is a method used to assess and compare the energy and environmental performance of properties in the UK. It uses a site visit and survey of the property to calculate energy performance.

This type of assessment can be carried out on properties built before 1 April 2008 in England and Wales, and 30 September 2008 in Northern Ireland. It can also be used for newer properties, as long as they have a previous SAP assessment, which uses detailed information about the property’s construction to calculate energy performance.

Other certificates for this property

If you are aware of previous certificates for this property and they are not listed here, please contact us at dluhc.digital-services@levellingup.gov.uk or call our helpdesk on 020 3829 0748.

Certificate number: 0399-3005-1204-7569-2204
Valid until: 31 March 2031

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